Lundi 26 janvier 2009 1 26 /01 /Jan /2009 12:56

Introduction:

Mongolia's political system is a parliamentary republic.

The area of what is now Mongolia has been ruled by various nomadic empires, including the Xiongnu, the Xianbei, the Rouran, the Gökturks, and others. The Mongol Empire was founded by Genghis Khan in 1206. After the collapse of the Yuan Dynasty, the Mongols returned to their earlier patterns. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Mongolia came under the influence of Tibetan Buddhism. At the end of the 17th century, most of Mongolia had been incorporated into the area ruled by the Qing Dynasty. During the collapse of the Qing Dynasty in 1911, Mongolia declared independence, but had to struggle until 1921 to firmly establish de-facto independence, and until 1945 to gain international recognition. As a consequence, it came under strong Russian and Soviet influence: In 1924, the Mongolian People's Republic was declared, and Mongolian politics began to follow the same patterns as Soviet politics of the time. After the breakdown of communist regimes in Eastern Europe in late 1989, Mongolia saw its own Democratic Revolution in early 1990, which led to a multi-party system, a new constitution in 1992, and the - rather rough - transition to a market economy.

At 1,564,116 square kilometres, Mongolia is the nineteenth largest and most sparsely populated independent country in the world, with a population of around 2.9 million people. It is also the world's second-largest landlocked country after Kazakhstan. The country contains very little arable land, as much of its area is covered by steppes, with mountains to the north and west and the Gobi Desert to the south. Approximately 30% of the country's 2.9 million people are nomadic or semi-nomadic. The predominant religion in Mongolia is Tibetan Buddhism, and the majority of the state's citizens are of the Mongol ethnicity, though Kazakhs, Tuvans and other minorities also live in the country, especially in the west.


Mongol Empire ( Mongol Empire )



In the chaos of the late twelfth century, a chieftain named Temüjin finally succeeded in uniting the Mongol tribes between Manchuria and the Altai Mountains. In 1206, he took the title Genghis Khan, and waged a series of military campaigns - renowned for their brutality and ferocity - sweeping through much of Asia, and forming the Mongol Empire, the largest contiguous land empire in world history. Under his successors it stretched from present-day Poland in the west to Korea in the east, and from Siberia in the north to the Gulf of Oman and Vietnam in the south, covering some 33,000,000 km² (12,741,000 sq mi), (22% of Earth's total land area) and having a population of over 100 million people. After Genghis Khaan's death, the empire had been subdivided into four kingdoms or Khanates which eventually split-up after Möngke's death in 1259. One of the khanates, the "Great Khaanate", consisting of the Mongol homeland and China, became the Yuan Dynasty under Kublai Khan grandson of Genghis Khaan. He set up his capital in present day Beijing but after more than a century of power, the Yuan was replaced by the Ming Dynasty in 1368, with the Mongol court fleeing to the north. As the Ming armies pursued the Mongols into their homeland, they successfully sacked and destroyed the Mongol capital Karakorum among other cities, wiping out the cultural progress that was achieved during the imperial period and thus throwing Mongolia back to anarchy.


For more info about the history of that country, go to:


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mongolia for english version

or

http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mongolie   pour la version francaise



My trip/ Le voyage:

Pour voir plus de photos de ce pays / to see more picts of that wonderful country :http://picasaweb.google.com/hebert.gabriel/


J'ai pris le train (le trans mongolien maintenant) depuis Irkoutsk le 14 septembre en debut d'apres midi. Je voyageais avec Max, un anglais de mon age, en tour d'asie.  Dans le wagon de Kupe (2eme classe), il y avait cette fois ci que des etrangers.

On est arrives a la frontiere Russo mongole le 15 septembre vers midi.
Apres avoir attendu bien 4 heures, (le temps de se debarrasser de nos derniers Roubles en achetant des bieres et de la vodka), les douaniers sont arrives et ont verifier les passeports et les bagages.
Ce qui m'a fait bien rigoler, c'est que dans notre compartiment, on etait 4, 2 americains, un anglais ,Max , et moi. On avait sorti la bouteille de vodka, et qd le douanier mongole est passe, Apres avoir controle nos papiers,  il nous a dit: ' Vous buvez de la Vodka?" avec un petit sourire... On lui a alors propose un verre, pour rire... Il a regarder a droite dans le couloir, puis a gauche, a bu le verre et puis est parti...
Bien sympa. En plus il parlait francais, j'etais bleuffe.

Le train s'est remis en route , en territore Mongole cette fois, vers 5h30. Nous sommes arrives a Oulan Bator (Ulan Bataar en anglais: UB), la capitale de la Mongolie le lendemain a 6h du mat.
La , sur le quai, il y avait plein de rabatteur pour auberge. Max avait reserve pour nous A UB Guest house. Ils etaient donc venus nous chercher a la sortie du train. Parfait.

Je recommande cette auberge a tous, l'ambiance y etait super, et le personel aussi.
En Mongolie, c'est pas tres facile de faire du stop, il y a peu de lignes de bus qui marchent, presque pas de routes goudronnes,alors le plus simple, c'est de louer un chauffeur avec son van... Ca coute vraiment pas cher.

L'auberge propose differents trips pour aller soit:
- dans le desert de Gobi, 7 jours ou 9 jours. (il faut 3 jours de piste pour y arriver...)
- voir les lacs, 4 jours
- soit  voir le grand lac du nord.
- soit d'aller vers le grand ouest.
- soit de faire son propre itineraire.

Pouur chaque trip propose, on prends un guide (le chauffeur et son van), qui nous emmenera a chaque arret dans les familles et les yourts que lui connait.

En fonction des bugets et du nombre de personnes il y differents types de voiture:
-la jeep Russe (4 personnes max)
-Le van 4x4 russe (7 personnes max)
- La jeep japonnaise (4 pers, meilleurs suspension, meilleurs confort)
- Le van 4x4 japonnais (7 pers, version confort)


Dans mon cas, je voulais voir le desert de Gobbi, et les lacs... Un trip sur mesure de 13 jours a 1200USD (cout du van avec chauffeur et gasoil)... A diviser avec le nombres de personnes qui viendraient....

(Avec cela, chaque jours nous devrons payer 5000 Toghrots/personne (3,5 euros) pour le diner, la nuit dans la yourt et le petit dej, a payer au proprio de la yourt qui nous acceuillerait. Nous devrons fournir notre propre dejeuner, en s'arretant au bord de la piste.)

Bhe oui, je ne sais pas si je reviendrais un jours dans le pays, alors pourquoi choisir entre 2 magnifiques voyages alors que la combinaison des 2 coute moins cher que le 2 trips pris separement (car la route evite de repasser par Oulan Bator).
Il me fallait alors trouver et convaincre 5 autres personnes de venir. Et puis il me fallait 5 personnes avec qui je pourrai m'entendre pdt 13 jours, sachant que l'on passerait a peu pres 7 heures chaque jours dans le van... Et 24/24 ensembles... Jeunes, ouverts d'esprit et sympa...

Bah ca a pas ete trop dur, ou en fait le produit a vendre etait tres bon!!!  J'avais deja rencontre un couple de francais bien sympa lors de la presentation des trips: Julien et Marion. Au depart pas trop chaud pour un long trip, ils ont finallement facilement changer d'avis.
Puis la nana de la presentation m'a parle d'un australien,  Chris, qui voulait faire un long trip.... On en a parle le soir alors que l'on dinait ensemble.
Le lendemain, j'en parlais a Charles et Kate, un couple franco - Neo Zelandais, qui ont directement etes pour.

Nikel, l'equipe etait formee. On decide de partir le surlendemain, pour avoir le temps d'aller chercher des provisions de bouffe et de boisson pour les dejeuners. On nous avait prevenu, ilest tres difficile de trouver des legumes et des fruits hors des villes...Ont fait un grand pots commun, on va aussi acheter des crayons de couleurs, de jeux de cartes, des journaux, des cigarettes des savons pour offrir aux gens chez qui on va aller dormir dans les yourts, pour les enfants et leurs parents...ca commence super bien.

Arrive a Oulan Bator le 16 Septembre, nous partons le 20, a 10h00, le chargement de nos affaires plus vivres et cadeaux est dans le van Russe, on demarre. Direction les steppes!!
Ulan Bator, Sukhbaatar Square with the parliament building and the offices of the prime minister and president.

Et voila l'equipe, de droite a gauche, de devant a l'arriere: Julien, Marion, Kate, Charles et Chris!!! Debut d'une super aventure a 7 avec notre chauffeur: Gana! Une bonne ambiance qui dura 13 jours!! 

Premier arret, premiere nuit en Yourt. Notre van a droite de la yourt. Au fond, La "Rock Formation", premier point d'interet.

Coucher de soleil.
Dans la yourt. Il fait pas tres chaud, mais on va bientot mettre le poele a bois en route, ou ouvrir une bouteille de vodka, l'autre facon de se rechauffer...

Superbe vue, ambiance geniale... Le pur bonheur!
C'est telment beau la Mongolie...


Juste apres une promenade sur un Vrai Chameau ( a 2 bosses).
Dans le desert de sable blanc du Gobi....
Emcore une fois, un paysage magnifique
Voila, mon seul bain, ma seule douche en 13 jours....  Mais un paquet de points roots... Et oui, dans les yourts , il n'y  pas d'eau courante, alors pas de douche. La seule option pour les filles: le 6 eme jours, en passant dans une ville, elles ont pu aller se doucher dans les douches publiques payantes. C'est la que tout les mongols de la ville vont se doucher... Et attention, tout confort, avec de l'eau chaude... Le 6 eme jour aussi, on est passes a cote de ce cours d'eau, ou on s'est arreter pour manger. Nous, les gars qui voulions le faire "a la roots", en evitant le confort de la douche avions alors un moyen roots de nous doucher... de l'eau a 8 degres...  
Autre coucher de soleil a laisser reveur.
Les cascades... En sortant du desert de gobi, en transition vers la zones des lacs...

Dans la yourt de nos hotes, la fabricationn de la vodka locale. Par distillation de lait de jumentg fermente appele airag, ils obtiennentn un alcool assez fort...Et pas trop degeu.

La Mongolie, sans une ballade a cheval, c'est comme la mer sans sel... Incontournable attraction, ici les chevaux sont hyper bien dresses... Si tu tires a gauche, le cheval part a gauche, a droite, il part a droite, deux trois coups dans les cotes et il galoppe, un veritable plaisir....  
Un de nos break pour le dejeuner... Ici Charles aux cuisines, sur le rechaux fournis par l'auberge.

La carte de l'asie, avec l'empire conquis par Gengis Khan... Le plus grand conquerant que la terre aient connue... Plus grand empire que les Grecques, les Romain, que Napoleon...
Les restes du grand temple bouddhiste de Karkorine... les communistes ont detruits 95% des 1000 temples de la ville...
Grosse soiree avec des amis mongols a Karakorum, une ancienne capitale de la Mongolie. Etant en Mongolie, il fallait aussi que je tente de faire de la lutte .. C'est l'un de 3 sports nationaux, avec le tir a l'arc et la course a cheval.
Mon voisin a droite sur la photo etait  justement champion de lutte... He bien, c'est pas des betises, il m'a mis 3 fois a terre en moins de 20 secondes a chaque fois... On a bien rigole aussi... 
Une promenade vers le volcan pasloin du lac bleu...
Le dernier jour du trip deja, Gana notre chauffeur et ami devant son van.

Le voyage dans les steppes restera une des plus belles experiences vecue  depuis mon depart de France.
Des paysages magnifiques, la nature sauvages partout, une population adorable et acceuillante, chaleureuse, une super equipe de potes....

L'ambiance a la deconne et la bonne humeur.... C'etait vraiment pur... J'espere que je reverrai Julien, Marion, Chris, Charles et Kate au cours du voyage...  

De retour a Oulan Bator le 2 octobre, nous allons voir un spectacle de danse et de musique traditionelles.
Et de contortionistes Mongoles

Juste le temps de se reposer un peu du voyage dans les stepes, de visiter un peu Oulan Bator, de donner quelques nouvelles sur internet a la famille et aux amis, et il se mets a neiger... Timming parfait , je pars pour la chine demain, en solitaire cette fois ci... le 8 octobre.

Symbole national du pays.
Apres une nuit passee dans le train, j'arrive a la frontiere Mongolie-Chine. J'ai obtenu mon visa chinois depuis Oulan bator, ou les gens de l'auberge m'ont bien aides a fournir tout les documents necessaires dans cette periodes d'apres JO de Pekin.
Le passage de la frontiere, en jeep pour moi...Assez stressant... J'ai l'impression d'etre un hors la loi qu'on envoie d'une jeep a une autre... Les gens se battent  pour se passer devant dans longue la file d'attente ... Impressionnant.
Heureusement j'ai rencontre deux jeunes Mongoles qui vont etudier en chine, et qui sont avec moi....Ils parlent un peu anglais et m'explique ce qui se passe...

J'ai decide de passer la frontiere par la route, car le train direct Oulan bator-Pekin doit s'arreter la frontiere pendant 6 h pour changer l'ecartement des roues. En effet ,entre le rail russe mongole- et le chinoid, il y a une differnce d'ecarrtement de 7 cm.... Ma theorie, c'est que les chinois ont choisis cela pour empecher les russes de pouvoir atteindre pekin avec leurs chars rapidement....Du coup , c'est long et en plus , ca coute bcp plus cher que de prendre le train jusqu'a la frontiere puis traverser en taxi, et prendre un bus en chine... Et puis c'est clairement plus l'aventure... Une photo de mon chargement. dans la salle d'attente de la station de bus chinoise pour Pekin... J'achete un billet pour Pekin, mais Je ne sais pas trop ou je vais arriver.... On verra.

La Mongolie, c'est vraiment le pays qui m'a le plus plus jusque la. C'est la nature partout, la vie simple, des habitants geniaux, des paysages de fou... Gros souvenir

Un peu triste de partir, mais c'est la Chine qui m'attend maintenant, alors c'est reparti....

Pour plus de photos de ce magnifique pays, aller a : http://picasaweb.google.com/hebert.gabriel/.
Par Gabriel - Publié dans : 19. Mongolie
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Dimanche 28 décembre 2008 7 28 /12 /Déc /2008 12:26

Hello everybody, I have just discoverded Wikitravel !! It is like wikipedia, but for travellers...
The best guide book you''ll ever find, and for free!!
Cool, with that web site, I'll never need to carry  travel guide books anymore!!

Here is the adress: http://wikitravel.org
 

Introduction:


Irkutsk (Иркутск)  is capital of the Russian province of Irkutsk Oblast in Eastern Siberia.

In the early nineteenth century, many Russian artists, officers and nobles were sent into exile to Siberia for their part in the Decembrist revolt against Tsar Nicholas I. Irkutsk became the major center of intellectual and social life for these exiles, and much of the city's cultural heritage comes from them; also, many of their wooden houses, adorned with ornate, hand-carved decorations, survive today in stark contrast with the standard Soviet apartment blocks that surround them. The wide streets and ornate, continental architecture led to Irkutsk being called the "Paris of Siberia", although travelers are unlikely to have a difficult time distinguishing the two today.

During the civil war that broke out after the Bolshevik Revolution, Irkutsk became the site of many furious, bloody clashes between the "Whites" and the "Reds" (aka Bolsheviks), and a number of city landmarks remain from that era. In 1920, Kolchak, the once-feared commander of the largest contingent of anti-Bolshevik forces, was executed there, effectively destroying the anti-Bolshevik resistance.

Today, Irkutsk is one of the biggest cities in Siberia, with a growing population of more than 590,000 people. It's home to several universities and a major branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, thanks to its proximity to Lake Baikal. In July, the average temperature is 18°C (64°F) with a bit of rain, but by January, the temperature plunges in typically Siberian fashion to -19°C (-2°F). Early September finds the local foliage at its finest.


Lake Baikal is in Russia. It is the biggest and deepest freshwater lake in the world, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Lake Baikal in the morning
Lake Baikal in the morning

The lake is located in Eastern Siberia, between Irkutsk Oblast to the northwest and Buryatia to the southeast. It is the planet's deepest and oldest lake, as well as its largest body of freshwater, containing over one fifth of the world's supply.



My trip:

I arrived in Irkutsk at 5am in the morning , It was cold and dark outside the train station, so Linda, Geert, and english girl, another french guy and me waited for the sun to rise in the sky before to get out of the train station...
At 7, the english girl left, she took another train for Ulan Bataar, she had already bought all her tickets before she arrived in Russia... She would have liked to stop longer by the baikal lake... That is the problem with organising everything at home before to go... You have no possibilities to change your plans.

The other french guy left at 7.30, he directly went to the bus station to take a bus to Olkhon Island.... It is the most beautiful place around the Baikal lake. It is also a very important Shamanic place... Every body says it is magic there, the landscape are amasingly beautiful...
I wanted to go there as well, but I did not have enougth time. It is 7 hours of bus away from Irkutsk. I was very tired of the train trip, we were on the 12th of September, and my visa was expiring on the 15th. I needed 12 hours of train to reach the Mongolian border from Irkutsk.

At 8am Linda, Geert and me went for coffee and breakfast and then got in search of a hostel. That we easily found.

After a few hours relaxing in the hostel , I took a walk in the city:
Wooden houses every where.

Two french girls I met outside a orthodox church... Pleasant to speak french for a while.
A monument to the bolchevik heroes that fought the "Whites " during the civil war.


The next day , Saturday the13th of September, I took a tourist trip to the Circum baikal railway... That tour combines a bus trip from Irkutsk to Listvyanka, a boat trip on the lake from Listvyanka to port Baikal, and a train trip on the Circum baikal railway. That railway follows the baikal lake all around the coast at 2 to 5 meters from the shore... So the view is wonderful. The train stops many times (it has become a touristic attraction) so that you can take pictures and swim and walk around, visit some of the 42 tunnels... After approximately 90 km, you arrive in Slioudyanka, where you get into another train that brings you back to Irkutsk. It really worth to do that trip, especially if you have very little time and want to see as much as you can of the Baikal lake.


The boat trip. The weather was not very good in the morning ... But it got better after 10am. I had met an English guy, Max, at the hostel I was in,  we did the trip together...
The train engine car... An old one.
The lake... The water was so clear!! It is said to be so pure that you can drink it... I didnot try though!!
A few stops on the way.

I wanted to swim in the lake of course... A one in a life time opportunity to swim in the baikal.. I could not miss that!!  At some point on the way, we stopped, and I saw a russian guy  going for a swim!! Bloody hell !! Gotta do the same. I had already drank 2 beers (it was around 1pm), so It should be ok! I did not have a swimming suit, just went with underwear... it was very cold,  would say 8 degrees!! 


Fortunately, we are in Russia, and when the russian guy that swam as well saw me, He offered me a glass of VODKA to warm myself back up. Nice is not it?

Overmore, a few girls that saw me swimming came to Max and me, and after we met they invited us to there car, and offered the only 2 foreigners of the train, to drink more and more Vodka in a very good ambience...

Another great Russian experience!!


On a bridge
One of the Russian girls, and Max with an old man that was passing by... With a good kazak clothing style!
On the 14th of September, a last walk before to take the train for Mongolia.
A statue of Alexander III? or II?. Shit i don't remember... Anyway I don't think my readers really care...ha!Ha!


In the train.... Discovering the Mongolian steppes.... 



Getting closer and closer from the Mongolian Border...

I was feeling so much excitement.... Mongolia... It is years I wander how It looks like.... And It is coming... I'll be there in a few hours.... Steppes for kilometers and kilometers.............


Par Gabriel - Publié dans : 18. Russie
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Dimanche 28 décembre 2008 7 28 /12 /Déc /2008 12:11
L'epopee du transiberien!!

De Yekaterinburg a Irkutsk, 2 jours 3 nuits de train!! Voila a quoi ca ressemble 3 jour de train en Siberie:

Des forets et des forets et des forets....

Irkoutsk, Moscou, en cyrillique
Et voila, j'ai eu la chance de rencontrer un jeune russe qui parlait un peu anglais dans mon compartiment!! Trop sympa... On boit de la vodka, et on joue aux echecs, et on chante entre les wagons en fumant des cigarettes, et on reboit de la biere... L'ambiance me fait penser a "dans le port d'Amsterdam" de Jaques Brel...

Voila, la, on chante, on boit et on fume, et on mange, on passe le temps bien joyeusement... A ma gauche: celui qui l'on surnomait Kasparof, un exellent joueur d'echec.. J'ai reussit a gagner que lorsqu'il ne tenait plus debout!! ha!Ha! c'est a peine si j'exagere... mais quelle ambiance!!
Voila le repas, du poisson secher, du foie de poisson une mandarine, une sauce tomate ouverte il ya 2 jours,des capsules de biere... Hum!! Suyper equilibre! Mes amis russes ne cesse de me faire gouter a tout ce qu'ils ont... alors je teste.. le poisson seche, c'est un peu comme le saumont fumme, c'est bon, le foie de poisson, c'est chelou, mais avec du pain, ca passe bien, le lard de porc avec du pain, je suis moins fan, mais avec beaucoup de biere ... :)
Voila le resultat!! ha!HA!
DU POISSON SECHE, pour les proteines, et de la biere pour tout le reste...
Et un petit bisou pour l'hotesse du notre wagon, qui s'occupe bien du seul etranger... Elle m'apporte du the et elle dit bonjour en francais!! On rigole bien dans le train...

Voila l'arret a Novosibirsk, 20 minutes d'arrets, juste de quoi acheter un peu a manger sur le quai, et beaucoup a boire.
Une nouvelle bouteille, cette fois , c'est du cognac... une petite variante de la vodka! et encore des echecs.
Et voila: on rigole et on boit , je vis la pleine culture Russe!! Trop bien ces potes. Ils parlent pas trop anglais alors c'est surtout des sourrires et des gestes, mais ca se passe bien. Je leur chante du Joe Dassein, du Patricia kass, ils connaisent et kiffent grave, j'hallucine! et Scorpion : "the wind of change" qui est une chanson qui a fait fureur a la tombee du mur de berlin. Ca marquait le changement du comunisme a l'autre grand modele de societe...
Et les paysages...
Le wagon restaurant, exactement comme dans Corto Maltesse (une BD). Je surkiffe.

Ha! Ha! Mais oui, je viens de faire la connaissance de deux autres etrangers dans mon train, dans le wagon des "riches" (la seconde classe) qui est presque vide. Deux Hollandais : Linda and Geert, en tour du monde aussi. Ils sont super sympa, on voyagera ensemble pendant un bout et on se retrouvera a Oulan Bator puis a Pekin...


Le wagon resto de nuit.

On est arrives (Linda, Geert et moi) a Irkoust a 5h du mat... On attend le soleil pour sortir de la gare et se mettre en recherche d'une auberge de jeunesse... C'est que ca n'a pas l'air tres sur dans la rue.

Le voyage etait une superbe experience. J'ai eu beaucoup de chance de rencontrer Vlad, le russe qui parlait un peu anglais, sinon ca aurait ete bcp moins drole.

On est super content content d'arriver aussi, je reve d'une douche... Pas douche depuis une semaine... parti de Moscou dimanche soir, j'ai passe 5 nuit dans le train... et dans le train, il n'y a pas de douche. Certains se lavent dans les toilettes, moi, ca m'a pas tant derenge que cela... J'avais pas de rendez vous galant de toute facon!! Ha!ha!

Bon le prochain article, c'est Irkoutsk et le lac baikal. C'etait super beau, alors a toute les amis.


Par Gabriel - Publié dans : 18. Russie
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Dimanche 28 décembre 2008 7 28 /12 /Déc /2008 11:47
Yekaterinburg:

Is a major city in the central part of Russia, the administrative center of Sverdlovsk Oblast. Situated on the eastern side of the Ural mountain range, it is the main industrial and cultural center of the Urals Federal District. Its population of 1,293,537 (2.000.000 in metropolitan area) (2002 Census), which is down from 1,364,621 recorded in the 1989 Census, makes it Russia's fifth largest city. Between 1924 and 1991, the city was known as Sverdlovsk (Свердло́вск), after the Bolshevik leader Yakov Sverdlov.


-The city was founded in 1723 by Vasily Tatischev and named after Saint Catherine, the namesake of Tsar Peter the Great's wife Empress Catherine I (Yekaterina). The official date of the city foundation, however, is November 18, 1723. The city was named Sverdlovsk after the Bolshevik party leader and Soviet official Yakov Sverdlov from 1924 to 1991.


-Soon after the Russian Revolution, on July 17, 1918, Tsar Nicholas II, his wife, Alexandra, and their children Grand Duchesses Olga, Tatiana, Maria, Anastasia, and Tsarevich Alexei were executed by Bolsheviks at the Ipatiev House in this city. In 1977 the Ipatiev House was destroyed by order of Boris Yeltsin who later became the first President of the Russian Federation.


-In the 1920s, Yekaterinburg became a large industrial center of Russia. It was the time when the famous

Uralmash was built, becoming the biggest heavy machinery factory in Europe.


-During World War II, many government technical institutions and whole factories were relocated to Yekaterinburg away from the war-affected areas (mostly Moscow), with many of them staying in Ekaterinburg after the victory. The Hermitage Museum collections were also partly evacuated from Leningrad to Sverdlovsk in July 1941 and remained there until October 1945.


Yekaterinburgis the first city of Siberia (asian Russia), being situated on the est side of the Oural mountains.

It is where Nicholas II and his family were assassinated, where Boris Yeltsine comes from, and played a major role in during World war II.... That is already largely good enougth reasons to stop and visit the place!!


As for Kazan, I just stayed during the day time, I arrived in the morning and took the train for Irkutsk (close by the Baikal lake) in the afternoon.


But first are a few picts of the landscape I could see from the window in the train Kazan-Yekaterinburg.


The train... It is at those moment that you feel the best on a world trip... In movement!! I feel so Free, Excited and Passionated when I watch by the window and dream about the next destination... There some kind of magic in those moments...
The type of house you see all along the way... Wooden made with the same shape.
Then I arrived in Yekaterinburg... Nice old communist statue, promoting the ideology of the good brave workers and farmers. In front of the train station.
Yekaterinburg's Church on the Blood, built on the spot where the Ipatyev House once stood. It is in the cave of that house that Nicholas II, last tsar of the Russian Empire was executed with his family in 1918.
Nicholas II and his wife
The comemorating plates inside the church. The Tsar family was made saint by the Orthodox church, that suffered comunist repression... The Tsar was not good, but Comunism was even worst... :)

The monument to the deads of the Russian-Afghan war (1979-1989).

The war museum.
Statue of the city founders – Vasily Tatishchev and Georg Wilhelm de Gennin, mandated by Petre the Great.
The old train station.

In Yekaterinburg, there is already 2 hours difference with Moscow... The thing I did not know was that all the trains in Russia are running on Moscow time... So when I came back to the train station, after I hurried a bit to visit the city I found out I was 2 hours in advance....

No pb, I went for a good late lunch, a borsh, in a typical russian canteen restaurant.. Very good and cheap!

Then, I bought a few beers and a lot of food, to help breaking the ice and meet russian people, and got onto the Trans siberian train...The journey to Irkutsk takes 2 days, 3 nights...

Let's go!

Par Gabriel - Publié dans : 18. Russie
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Vendredi 26 décembre 2008 5 26 /12 /Déc /2008 19:11
Kazan is the capital city of the Republic of Tatarstan, Russia, and one of Russia's largest cities. It is a major industrial, commercial and cultural center, and remains the most important center of Tatar culture. Kazan lies at the confluence of the Volga and Kazanka Rivers in central European Russia.

I went to Kazan because when I was working in Dubai, Justin, my boss told me He had built a bridge there, so I wanted to go and see it... And as well because , Freddy, another colleague of VSL told me that the most beautiful girls in the world were there.... :) Largely enougth to excit my curiosity...

Kazan train station
My first impression... Asi walked into the ruined streets closeby the train station...


Bauman Street


A russian girl that helped me find my way, in front the Kazan State University. Happy to have someone to practice english with, she proposed to show me the city around... very cool!
Lenin was a student in that university before he was banned from it, because of his political ideas.... Now he has his statue in front of that university.
In front of Kazan Kremlin.
Tatar people are muslim. Here is a beautiful mosque in the kremlin.

Ok Freddy, I agree with you... My beautiful and sexy city guide!! Hi heels, short shorts, sexy top... A real russian girl. Lovely.... I'm under her charms!!

Hey Justin, that your bridge isn't it !!! Well done man!

I just stayed during the day in Kazan.
I arrived in the morning with an overnight train from Moscow, and left by 8pm with the overnight train to Yekateringburg.
I did have a lot of time (only 7 days before my russian visa expired, so 7 days to be in Mongolia), so I could not stay overnight in the city,  but it was enougth to have a nice overview of another big Russian city than Moscow and St petersburg... And it is very different.


 
Par Gabriel - Publié dans : 18. Russie
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Vendredi 5 décembre 2008 5 05 /12 /Déc /2008 09:59


Moscow,  the most expensive city in the world... 10 M people...

I arrived in moscow at 6.30 in the morning.
Jeno, the father of my sister in law was here to pick me up at the Leningrad Vokzal (station)and brought me to his house. It is good to have some family abroad!!

After I rested a bit in the house, I left. My mission for the day is to find out how I'll get the visa for Mongolia, my next destination after Russia.
I have 12 days left before my visa for Russia expires (the 15th of september), and I need at least 5 days non stop to reach the border Russia-Mongolia with the trans-Siberian train... Hot patato !!
That means that I must get the Mongolian visa by the 10th, that is in 7 days.. 
So that morning, I got to the Mongolian consulate, with all the document I needed according to the mongolian consulate website in France.
Unfortunately, they told meI needed an invitation letter... Shit!
Ok I'll find a internet cafe somewhere in the center of Moscow and then find out how to get that invitation letter.
So I walked toward the city center. It was very cold outside that day, and raining ... Not Cool... :)
I sat on a banc in a parc. When I stood up , my pants were stiking to the banc... It had just been painted... And nothing signalised it... My pants were destroyed... Really not cool either :)
Then I walked for hours in the search for an internet cafe...  When I was asking the people in the street, wether they would not speak a word of english, or not bother and keep walking, or they would tell me to go somewhere that I  never found...

By 3pm, I met Igor, a Russian friend that I had met in Turkey, in Istanbul in June. We wanted to go visiting the red square, and the kremlin together,but ,unfortunately, it was closed.... Because of the city birthday... And nobody could tell how long it would stay closed to the public... The authorities had just decided this... Then Igor took me to the sparow hills, from where there is a nice view over Moscow.



















The Moscow Skyline as seen from Sparrow Hills  with the Grand Sport Arena of Luzhniki Stadium.
Moscow State University at Sparrow Hills.

After this walk, Igor told me where to find a internet cafe... So I went there, connected to the web, but could not get information on how to get the bloody invitation letter for the Mongolian visa.
At 6pm, I had an appointment with Anna, a friend of Zoja, the mother of my sister in law, that spoke english. Zoja had asked her to show me around and explain me the history of russia.. Cool no?

The Kremlin seen from the others side of the Moskva river.
With Anna, we walked for hours all around the city. I came back home totaly exhausted...
The next day, my ankles were swollen and painfull, so I just stayed in the house the morning, and moved in the afternoon, in research of another internet cafe.
I had 2 questions I had to find an answer to:

- How to get an invitation letter for the Mongolian visa?
- If I can make the visa for Mongolia in Moscow, will I be able to make the Chinese visa from Mongolia, in Ulan Bataar?
I knew I did not have enougth time to make the Mongolian visa and the Chinese one in moscow... My Russian visa would expired before.

After some hours spent looking for the invitation letter, consulted a few traveller forum to get info, I sent e-mails to some hostels in Ulan bataar, the capital of Mongolia to obtein it. I was thinking it was too late for the mongolian visa and started looking for the Chinese one... That seemed to be even more difficult to obtein... I was stressed cause I did not what to do... Should I then get to Vladivostock, and from there to japan? (I don't need a visa for Japan).
But then I would have to skip Mongolia, that was place I really wanted to go to...

The next day, Thursday, the 4th of September, I went back to the internet cafe in the morning, to see if I had some answers from the hostels I contacted the previous day... Unfortunatly, there was none. On the travellers forum, I had an answer: No need of an invitation letter for a stay that last less than 30 days...  Chinese visa can be obteined from Mongolain Ulan Bataar...
I ran to the Mongolian consulate before it closes... And when the girl of the Mongolian consulate asked me for the invitation letter again, I just told her I did not need it as I was not going to stay more than 30 days... She asked me where I was from , and then asked her boss, and accepted.... Ouff!!! I asked for the emergency procedure (55 USD instead of 30). She told me to come back the next day between  5 and 6pm to collect it ...

Cool, I could breath... I can now start visiting and enjoy Moscow!!
But at night, I got scared again when I realised the next day was friday... A consulate open from 5 to 6 pm on a friday... I hope I won't have to wait till next monday to have it.

The rest of the day, I walked in Moscow, that what I saw, I was going to a Kiev train station, to reserve my trip with the trans Siberian train... I don't know the prices, and if there will be some place... I was told that it was often fully booked months in advance during the summer...( That is complete bullshit though (for the third class at least), something the tourist agency in western europe tells you so that you buy it with them, and they take a great commission...)... But that info still gave me some more adrenaline...

Actually, the trans Siberian train is not a train for tourists as some people stupidly  think, the rail way line is used every day by the russian people that goes from one point of Russia to another one... There are trains running everyday, and it is quite cheap (and easy if you speak russian) to buy them once in Moscow.
 
A stalinian period building, one of the 7 sisters... 7 same buildings were built in moscow, facing all the directions.
When I arrived at the train station , I was told that the train ticket for Kazan and Irkutsk were only sold at the Kazan train station... (while I had been told the opposite) Shit again, I started to hate Moscow. Ha!Ha! Don't ask me why...
In a very fashionned mall closeby the Kievskaya vokzal (kiev train station). All the shops in Moscow are so expensive,  it is a pure craziness, I don't know how the people can buy it.... (though Moscow has the highest number of billionnaires in the world.. that could explain...).

On my way back to the house, the Moskva river.
The Russian government ,with gazprom, the first gaz productor compagny in the world... One of the political and strategic weapons of Russia in their international policy... Cut the gas pipes, and european people will freeze in winter...
It was interesting to be in Moscow during the South Ossetia-Georgian conflict... In those conflicts ( different ethnicities staying in a same region) there are generally not the good one on one side , and the bad ones on the other side... It is always grey, and nobody really knows what is going on... Russians are not worse than others...The thing is that we only understand the western point of view... A lot of people in the western world understand english, but not russian... That is a unipolar information...  To learn more about the conflict: South Ossetia .
The Russian Government building...


The Moscow  metro stations...
In the house, with Jeno and Zoja, the parents of my sister in law... It was friday... I had the mongolian visa in my passeport, in the right side of the pocket of my pants...    Everything ok!!
For the week end, I went to a friend appartment that was working inMoscow... He was free for the week end ,so he showed me the Moscow night life!!

May be with too much Vodka!!
The first night, Friday, there was many things happening in the streets, concerts, one man shows, music... So we just partied in the streets.

Saturday night, we went to a night club... those following picts are taken on the way to the club:
The Natiional museum  at night.

Partying in Moscow was great fun... I wish I could have stayed longer!!
Sunday, in Arbat street... Some military guys getting ready for a parade.
National museum , by day...
The kremlin... It was opened that day!!
La tour Vodozvodnaïa
Entering the kremlin (Kremelin means fortress in Russian)
Inside the Kremlin



At the entrance of the red square. That was finally open!
The red square, with Lenin mausoleum on the right.
The saint Basile Cathedral.
The kremlin seen form the bridge in front of the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour.
The other side.
The  Cathedral of Christ the Saviour.


I took the train from Moscow to Kazan that night, at 8pm. The train was arriving in Kazan the next day at 8 as well...
So that was the last day in moscow, and the start of the Trans-Siberien adventure...

Ride on!!!
Par Gabriel - Publié dans : 18. Russie
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Lundi 20 octobre 2008 1 20 /10 /Oct /2008 14:17
Saturday the 30th

Pauline, Julien, Bernhard and I wanted to go visiting
Peter the Great's Palace, built in 1714-1725 in Peterhof,
but we missed the train for it, so we went to one of the largest English gardens of Europe in Pavlovsk:

In the parc, a building with a pianist, and spectators.
from left to right: Pauline, Julien and Bernhard in Pavlovsk parc
Un ecureuil... Il y  en avait de milliers...
Ha! ha! Just for the joke, the only shining part (so the one that is touched) of this bronze statue is???? I let you guess!!!
One of the lake of the parc...

That's Paul, the son, and successor to the throne of Peter the great. But that one was not great at all....
Recovering from the hang over of the last night...  :)
Playing the tsars, in front of Pavlovsk castle.

As we came back from pavlovsk, I received a phone call from Svetlana, the russian cousin of my sister in law...
Cool !! We met the same evening and she showed me around the city in her very cool car.
Svetlana and I by the baltic sea side. A military submarine in the port.
Svetlana fashion car!
A bridge above the Neva river lightened at night.
Back to the house of Bernhard. That saurday night, we went to a party of some of bernhard friends in an appartment.

Sunday, I went to visit the Hermitage museum. But I stopped on the way in the summer palace Birds coming for pieces of my breakfast... Cookies!!
The Church of the Savior on Blood designed in the Russian revival style commemorated the place where Alexander II of Russia was assassinated in 1881. Alexander II was considered a great tsar, he was a progressist: he abolished serfdom, and was assasinated the day after his plans for an elected parliament, or Duma, were completed. The Information had not been released to the Russian people. The first action Alexander III took after his coronation was to tear up those plans. Alexander II was supposed to sign for a constitutional monarchy!! Too bad for him and the russian people...
Inside the church of the savior on blood... beautiful !

Pevchesky bridge in Saint petersburg city center...
And the famous Hermitage museum.... Unfortunatley , it was beeing restaured... The museum is housed in the winter palace, where the star were living a ruling the country from.
Inside the winter palace...  tha stairs.... magnificent.
The stairs again.
My favorite room, built for Catherine II... Followingare some beautiful arts pieces I really liked...

The next day, monday , the 1st of september, i went to visit the russian museum.
Unlike in the hermitage museum, the russian museum has only russian art pieces. And it is very ,very good as well.

The russian museum, was beeing restaured as well...

The Ninth Wawe, of Ivan Aivazovski.

Barge haulers on the Volga, Ilya Repin


"Nikolay Mirlikijski saves from death innocents convicts". Ilya Repin

Later that same day, I went to the train station ... Taking an overnight train to Moscow... In the 3rd class ones... Cool!


I slept in one of those beds... in russian platskard ... The 3rd class, it is a open space, no cabins...
I could have stayed one more week in st petersburg, and still have not see everything I wanted to... But my visa is only for 20 days, and there is still soo much to go and see... and the mongolian, and chinese visa to get in moscow....

Sometimes, travelling is not such a piece of cake.. A lot of planning has to be done, a lot of reading, to learn about the place, to find accomodation, to find your way and communicate in a foreign language...
Russian people doesnot speak english in general... And that makes it much more difficult... Buying a train ticket becomes a mission... I was writing in cyrilic alphabet the city of departure, the city of arrival, the date I wanted to leave, the approximate time... And if the lady understood, she wouyld give me the right time of deparetue, and a price... Which class ?? What time of arrival in the city? Well, No idea... That 's adventure!!!!!!
Par Gabriel - Publié dans : 18. Russie
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Dimanche 19 octobre 2008 7 19 /10 /Oct /2008 13:11

A city and a federal subject of Russia located on the Neva River at the head of the Gulf of Finland on the Baltic Sea. The city's other names were Petrograd (Петрогра́д, 1914–1924) and Leningrad (Ленингра́д, 1924–1991). It is often called just Petersburg (Петербу́рг) and is informally known as Peter (Пи́тер).

Founded by Tsar Peter I of Russia on 27 May, 1703, it was the capital of the Russian Empire for more than two hundred years (1713–1728, 1732–1918). Saint Petersburg ceased being the capital in 1918 after the Russian Revolution of 1917. It is Russia's second largest and Europe's fourth largest city (by city limit) after Moscow, London and Paris. The city has 4.6 million inhabitants, and over 6 million people live in its vicinity. Saint Petersburg is a major European cultural center, and an important Russian port on the Baltic Sea.

Saint Petersburg is often described as the most Western city of Russia. Among cities of the world with over one million people, Saint Petersburg is the northernmost. The Historic Centre of Saint Petersburg and Related Groups of Monuments constitute a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Russia's political and cultural center for 200 years, the city is sometimes referred to in Russia as the northern capital. A large number of foreign consulates, international corporations, banks and other businesses are located in Saint Petersburg.



My trip
:

I arrived In St Pet on the 27th of August, in the evening, by bus from Helsinki.
I had no pb at the border... Ouf!!
The trip by bus (russian bus, much cheaper, only 15 euros!! the finish buses are 60 euros!) was funny, the bus stop in some different shops along the way where the russian guys were buying lots of things...
As the accomodations are quite expensive in Russia, especially in Moscow and St Ptersburg, I couch surfed in St Pet. I had met a Austrian guy, Bernhard, through couchsurfing.com, and as I arrived in St pet, I called him , and went to his appartment. Bernhard is a very cool guy, I directly felt home as he told me "mi casa es tu casa " Nikel! He gave me the keys of the flat!!
Then after a quick dinner, Bernhard took me to some bars to meet some of his friends!!! Cool no?? Great actally. He left early , telling me he had to work the next day and telling me to stay and enjoy St Petersburg night life!!! I partied  a lot and Olga, a friend of his took me back to his house... That was brilliant!!!

The next day, the weather was shit so I stayed in the flat in the morning, and washed it... As some other couch surfers left the day before, I thought Bernhard was really really cool, and that  he would be happy to find it clean when he would come back from work at night... I also read what to do in St Pet, and went for a walk in the city in the afternoon...
That's what I saw:
 
I first walked by the river, and into  a nice park
A statue in the summer garden, if anybody knows who it is, please say it in the comments!!

The monument to the unknown soldiers
The view over the Neva river. That is the most powerfull fountain I have never seen, the water was sent to above 30m!! Inpressive!!   
Patricia Kass!!!!! Je ne savais pas en arrivant qu'elle etait si populaire en Russie
The Russian speed boat on the Neva river... It is not floating.. It is Flying!!!!!!!!!!
A nice old boat on the Neva.


Alexander the First, the great!!! The founder of St Petersburg!
Palace Square with the Alexander Column
In the appartment of Bernhard (on the Left), with Julien et Pauline, 2 other french couch surfers that arrived that day at night!
The next day, the 29th, I first went to register myself at the official bureau for that... That's another thing you have to do when you enter the country... And it is costly.(500 roubles, 15uros).
Then Julien, Pauline and I went to visit the Peter and Paul Fortress. The picture above shows it, it is taken  from the other side of the Neva.
It was the first part of city built by Peter the great, Strategically situated along the neva river to control its passage.
The entrance to the fortress, from the river side.
The forbiden things to do in the fortress... The list it is long, and not understandable!!
The Peter and Paul cathedral. Saint Petersburg has no skyscrapers and a relatively low skyline as regulations forbade construction of buildings higher than the bell tower of the Cathedral!! The 122.5 m Peter and Paul Cathedral is then the highest building.

Inside the cathedral, where the tsars were buried since Peter the great....

The southern side of the neva, seen from the fortress. You can see the winter palace, that houses the Hermitage museum, one of the 3 biggest museums in the world, with the Metropiltan museum in New York , and the Louvre in Paris.
A photo of Youri Gagarine, in the museum of aerospace in the fortress. 
The Gaby , happy,  in front the Church of the Savior on Blood. :)

That night, The foot ball club of St petersburg won the champions league!!! I did not watch the match, but of course we went partying... It was crazy , In the streets the people were shouting , crying, singing, drinking, laughting, dancing .... It's been a great night...

The next day, saturday the30th was harder....

Par Gabriel - Publié dans : 18. Russie
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Samedi 18 octobre 2008 6 18 /10 /Oct /2008 16:41

Presentation:

The biggest country In the world!!! The superpower... The first country to have adopted communism in the whole history... USSR and its collapse, the after communist period... And soo much more, and soo interesting...
 
The hardest tourist visa to get as well !!! Ha!Ha!

Population: 142millions people.
Capital :Moscow 10.2 millions people inside the wall , 15 millions including the suburbs.
Surface: 17.000.000 square km... 30 times France's size !!!

142 millions d'habitants (2007) situé à cheval sur l'Europe et l'Asie. Son territoire, qui s'étend sur plus de 17 millions de km², 8 000 km séparant Kaliningrad de Vladivostok, en fait le plus grand pays de la planète. Bien qu'entourée de nombreux océans et mers, la Russie est caractérisée par un climat continental et les rigueurs hivernales sur la majeure partie du territoire.

For more info, history, politics ,culture , clic on the  link:  Russie. ( Russia for english speakers).

My trip :


I had a 21 day visa only, but I lost 2 days because It started on the 26 OF AGUST  and I only had my visa the 27th in Helsinki, and I arrived in St petersrburg by bus the 27th at night...

So I stayed:
- 5 days in St Petersburg 
- 6 days in Moscow

And then I started the transiberian train to Mongolia: I left Moscow on Sunday the 7th of September at night

- spent the night in the train and arrived In Kazan the 8th and visited the city during the day
- spent the night in the train again and arrived In Yekaterinburg the 9th and visited the city during the day
- spent the night, and the following one, and the foolowing one in the train to arrive In Irkutsk on the 12th at 3am!!

- I stayed 3 days in Irkoutsk.

And took the Transmongolian train from Irkutsk to Ulanbataar in Mongolia: 2 nights, one day of travel...

Conclusion: AMASING!!!!!!!!!! It has to be done in one's life!! 

Things that must be done or seen In Russia
(or at least on my way)

St Petersburg:
-The winter palace ( the hemitage museum is inside it)
-The Paul and Peter fortress.
- Peterhoff (the russian Versailles,but in more beautifull and bigger)
- The russian Museum
- Go in a Russian night club!!! :)

Moscow:
-The red square and the kremlin of course
- The cathedral of the blood
- The Poutchkin museum
- Go ina russian night club!!
- Use the subway!

On the Transiberian train:
- Travel in platskard class!! to meet the locals!
- Have lunch in the restaurant car
- Get drunk with russain guys to have fun and make time go faster! Smoke cigarets and sing in betweeen the cars.
- Try russian food with them.

By Irkutsk and the baikal lake:
- Swim in the Baikal lake!!!!
- Use the transbaikal train
- Go to Oklon Island

Others:
- Drink  Vodka with a russian guy!!
- Go to a bania (Russian bath).
- Play chess with a russian guy.
- kiss a russian girl!!!

......


RIDE ON BABY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Par Gabriel - Publié dans : 18. Russie
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Samedi 18 octobre 2008 6 18 /10 /Oct /2008 10:02
I arrived back to Helsinki tuesday night. I was to collect my Russian visa the next day at the Consulate.

That night, I stayed at Pentti's place again, and he took me out in the city!

Helsinki by night

In a bar...
We quickly met some nice Finnish and German girls!! Cool night!

The next day, I went back top the Russian consulate, I took my passport , the visa was done...  COOL!COOL!
I can stick to my original plan, and won't have to go back to Turkey and go to China through Iran, Pakistan and India...
Relaxed, I took a walk through the city...

Felt like singing:
"I'm happy, I feeling fine, I've got a sun shine , in my mind.... (Gorillaz)
Tu tu tu tu tutu tu tututututtutut Don't worry, tu tu tu tu tu tu tu, be happy, tu tutu tu tuuuuuuuu! Don't worry  be happy!!

Everything was fine to me that day!!

A nice boat... For even further evasion...
The Finnish fast food market, in the port area.  
The Uspenski Orthodox cathedral
And Inside it.
Back to the finnish fast food market!!! Hum, a good lunch made of patatoes, fish and sausages!!
The Helsinki Cathedral 
 Helsinki Central railway station.
Pietari.... St Petersburg... Youhou, I'm coming.!!!!!!!!!!!!

In the bus to Russia , that same day. Every body in the bus speaks Russian, no english...
The ride was funny, as we stoped in 2 or 3 big shops on the way, that were in the middle of nowhere, and where the russian passengers went to buy thousands of stuffs... This Russian bus was far cheaper than the finish regular bus lines to St Petersburg (15 euros instead of 60)... But the smell much stronger!!! :)
My first taste of Russia... 

Although I was not expacting much of Finland, I really enjoyed my stay there.

Thanks a lot Pentti for hosting me all thoses days.. It 's been very cool ! Cheers mate!

Par Gabriel - Publié dans : 17. Finlande
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